3. Manufacturing of textiles, hides/skins and leather 039

Manufacturing of textiles, hides/skins and leather 039

Nordic Swan Ecolabel clothes and textiles has a documented good quality and must have a reduced environmental impact throughout the life cycle of the textile. UN’s International Labour Conventions (ILO) on workers’ rights must be complied with in the production.

The requirements include products of textile fibers, hides and leather. Clothing, accessories, home textiles and textile fibers, yarn and fabrics for clothing or furnishings textiles can be certified with the Nordic Swan Ecolabel.

Examples

  • Clothing: Sweater, dress, trousers, skirt, jeans, shirt, top, jacket, workwear, uniforms, socks, and underwear.
  • Accessories: Hat, cap, scarf, belt, bag, handbag, and backpack.
  • Home textiles: Duvet, pillow, towels, bed linen, curtains, tablecloths and upholstery fabrics.


Baby products made of textiles that also contain other materials such as strollers and car seats are covered by the requirements for Baby products with textiles.

The requirements include:

  • Use of fibers that are either organic, recycled or based on renewable resources and meet specific environmental requirements.
  • Environmental and health properties of all chemicals used in the textile production. Among other things, Nordic Ecolabellling sets strict requirements to substances that are classified carcinogenic, toxic to reproduction or can damage genetic material. Identified and potential endocrine disruptors on up-to-date lists from EU and national authorities, flame retardants and fluorinated substances, and antibacterial additives incl. nanoparticles are forbidden.
  •  Implementation of a minimum of BAT (best available technology) water and energy efficiency techniques or local production of solar energy in textile production.
  • Test of the quality of the textile, e.g., dimensional change, color fastness and abrasion resistance.
  • Compliance with UN’s International Labour Organization (ILO) conventions on workers’ rights.


Two types of licence: Manufacturing and Products

As of version 5.0 of the requirements (valid as of March 1, 2022), there are two licence types:

  • Manufacturing licence
  • Product licence

Each licencetype requires a separate application. Fees are calculated per licence type. To get a Nordic Swan Ecolabelled product, you must have a product licence.

Manufacturing licence for manufacturers

Generally, it will be the factory where the textiles are manufactured that applies for a manufacturing licence. A manufacturing licence gives the right to produce for product licences within the product area specified in the manufacturing licence. A manufacturing licence does not give the right to communicate that any product meets the requirements of the Nordic Swan Ecolabel.

Requirements related to manufacturing facilities and processes are answered by the applicant in the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal. The product area the applicant wants to get the right to produce within is specified by declaring «textile items» in the Supply Chain Declaration Portal. The product area is defined by, among other things, product type, materials and other input factors such as buttons and colors.

In the declaration of a «textile item», the applicant states which components the specific «textile item» uses. The following components can be declared in the Supply Chain Portal by the applicant and/or relevant subcontractors: Chemicals, fiber, yarn, fabric, accessories such as buttons, padding materials, and leather.

Product licence for products/brand owners

If you want to Nordic Swan Ecolabel a garment or another textile product, you must apply for a product licence. In the application process, you must answer all product licence requirements for the products you want to ecolabel in the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal. You must also state which production licence(s) the product licence is to based on.

 

    1. Start your application process by reading the criteria document and find out if your product can obtain the Nordic Swan Ecolabel. 
    2. Read your Application Guide: "New application or change" or ""Renewal" (see below)
    3. Request login credentials.
    4. Now you are ready to enter the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal.

     

    Please note that you may have to contact your suppliers and ask them to declare items that are included in your product. Supply them with your Application ID in the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal and direct them to the "For suppliers" tab down below. 

     

    Portal sign in                                             Get login credentials

     

    Should you wish to transfer your licence, please use this form. 

  • Fees for 039 Textile Manufacturing Licence, valid from January 1, 2024

    Type of fee Amount
    Application, including one on-site inspection within the Nordic region *  

    3 251 EUR + VAT for production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1
    printing unit

    812 EUR + VAT for each additional dyeing or printing unit
    linked to the application
    Renewal

    1 625 EUR + VAT for production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1 printing
    unit

    812 EUR + VAT for each additional dyeing or printing unit linked to the application.
    More than one inspection visit within the Nordic region** 541 EUR + VAT per visit
    Inspection visits in Europe** 1 625 EUR + VAT per visit
    Inspection visits outside Europe** 2 709 EUR + VAT per visit
    Extension of existing licence*** < 4 hours: 406 EUR + VAT
    < 8 hours: 812 EUR + VAT
    ≥ 8 hours: 1 625 EUR + VAT
    Annual licence fee, global 2 167 EUR + VAT per year

     

    Fees for 112 Textile Product Licences (Brand Owner), valid from January 1, 2024

    Type of fee Amount
    New application 

    3 251 EUR + VAT
    Renewal

    1 625 EUR + VAT
    Extension of existing licence*** < 4 hours: 406 EUR + VAT
    < 8 hours: 812 EUR + VAT
    ≥ 8 hours: 1 625 EUR + VAT
    Annual licence fee, global 0,15% of the products turnover in the Nordic countries up to 30 million EUR.
    0,05% of the turnover that exceeds 30 million EUR
    Minimum fee 2 167 EUR + VAT per year

    Fees for sale outside the Nordic region          
    (Only if turnover > EUR 300,000 per year)

    		 2 167 EUR + VAT per year

     

    * When both the applicant and the manufacturer are micro-enterprises, the fee is reduced by 50%. A micro-enterprise is in this context defined as an enterprise with less than 10 employees and an annual turnover (of both ecolabelled and not ecolabelled products) below 2 million EUR.

    ** Where audits requires more than one day away from the office including travelling, Nordic Ecolabelling can invoice an additional fee of 1 083 EUR per extra day. Other extraordinary costs induced by the audit can also be invoiced the applicant.

    *** As for an extension of or amendments to a licence, time consumed in connection with the review process will be invoiced according to the extent of the required task. We make a distinction between entirely administrative tasks that last less than 1 hour, and all other tasks that last between 1 and 4 hours, between 4 and 8 hours and more than 8 hours.

    The recipient is liable for the VAT according to article 56 of the Council Directive 2006/112/EC.
    All information given on this site is subject to a disclaimer for errors and omissions.

     

    Fees for 039 Manufacturing Licence, valid from Januari 1, 2023 until December 31, 2023

    Type of fee Amount
    Application fee including one on-site inspection within the Nordic region *  

    3 114 EUR + VAT for production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1
    printing unit

    778 EUR + VAT for each additional dyeing or printing unit
    linked to the application
    Renewal fee, generation 4 to generation 5

    1 557 EUR + VAT

    778 EUR + VAT for each additional dyeing or printing unit linked to the
    application.
    More than one inspection visit within the Nordic region** 519 EUR + VAT per visit
    Inspection visits in Europe** 1 557 EUR + VAT per visit
    Inspection visits outside Europe** 2 595 EUR + VAT per visit
    Extension of existing licence*** < 4 hours: 389 EUR + VAT
    < 8 hours: 778 EUR + VAT
    ≥ 8 hours: 1 557 EUR + VAT
    Annual licence fee in the Nordics 0,3 % of the products' turnover in the Nordic countries + VAT
    Minimum fee 2 076 EUR + VAT per year
    Maximum fee 100 000 EUR + VAT per year

    Fees for sale outside the Nordic region          
    (Only if turnover > EUR 300,000 per year)

    		 2 076 EUR + VAT per year

     

    Fees for 112 Textile Product Licences (brand owner), valid from Januari 1, 2023 until January 31, 2023

    Type of fee Amount
    New application 

    3 114 EUR + VAT

    Free of charge for brand owners who are licence holders on 039 Textiles, generation 4, if they
    apply for renewal of their licence on the same date.
    Renewal N/A
    Extension of existing, or changes in, licence*** < 4 hours: 389 EUR + VAT
    < 8 hours: 778 EUR + VAT
    ≥ 8 hours: 1 557 EUR + VAT
    Annual licence fee in the Nordics No fee in 2023

    Annual licence fee for sale outside the Nordics         

    		 No fee in 2023

     

  • In the criteria document, you can read about how to document and verify compliance for each requirement.

  • Thank you for helping your customers finding your items, in connection with an application to obtain a Nordic Swan Ecolabel licence.

    Item is a general term for various goods and materials. For example chemicals, laminates, glass and fabrics.

    Please, declare your items in the Supply Chain Declaration Portal.

    To the Declaration Portal

  • 5.4 ⇛ 5.5: Adjustment of criteria

    On 21 November 2023 Nordic Ecolabelling decided to adjust requirement O96 by adding the possibility to use new alternative requirements O97 to O103 regarding Human Rights Due Diligence obligations. On 19 December 2023 Nordic Ecolabelling decided to adjust requirement O79 by allowing the textiles in dark colors have a color fastness to wet rubbing of at least level 2-3. On 27 February 2024 Nordic Ecolabelling decided to adjust requirement O46 with an exemption for hot-melt polyurethane adhesive containing methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) to be used for water-proof bed sheets. The new version is called 5.5.

    5.3 ⇛ 5.4: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The criteria for Textiles 039 and 112 have been prolonged by 7 months until December 31, 2026.

    5.2 ⇛ 5.3: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O8 has been adjusted. Embroidery area of a total of max. 50 cm2 is exempt.

    The new version is called 5.3 and is valid until May 1, 2026.

    5.1 ⇛ 5.2: Adjustment of criteria

    In requirement O57 it was clarified that tests for 1,3-butadiene may only be carried out for synthetic latex. Furthermore the product type carpets has been removed from the criteria as these product types will be covered by product group 113 Textile floors and carpets.

    The new version is called 5.2 and is valid until May 1, 2026.

    5.0 ⇛ 5.1: Adjustment of criteria

    Adjustment of the following criteria:

    • Requirement O13 by adding Leather standard by Oeko-Tex
    • Requirement O14 by adding OCS 100 and OCS blended
    • Requirement O29 by adding Bonsucro standard
    • Requirement O70 by introduction of tests according to standard ISO/DIS 4484-1 and AATCCTM212
    • Requirement O93 where requirement for labels on plastic packaging have been deleted

    The new version is called 5.1 and is valid until 1 May 2026.

    5.0: New criteria generation

    The Nordic Ecolabelling Board has decided on a new generation. The new generation, 5.0, will take effect on 1 March 2022 and is valid until on 1 May 2026.

    4.14 ⇛ 4.15: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    Nordic Ecolabbetling decided on 3 May 2022 to prolong the validity of the criteria to the 31 December 2023. The new version is called 4.15.

    4.13 ⇛ 4.14: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 6 months to 31 May 2023. The new version is called 4.14.

    4.12 ⇛ 4.13: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 11 months to 30 November 2022. The new version is called 4.13.

    4.11 ⇛ 4.12: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 12 months to 31 December 2021. The new version is called 4.12.

    4.10 ⇛ 4.11: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O2 regarding metal in belts has been adjusted. The new version is called 4.11. 

    4.9 ⇛ 4.10: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O69 has been given a dimensional change for woven products for quilts and pillows. The new version is called 4.10. 

    4.8 ⇛ 4.9: Adjustment of criteria

    Adjustments have been made to requirements O2 and O82. The new version is called 4.9.

    4.7 ⇛ 4.8: Adjustment and prolongation of criteria

    It was decided to remove requirement O91 Recycling and return system. Furthermore the validity of the requirements has been prolonged with 24 months to 31 December 2020. The new version is called 4.8.

    4.6 ⇛ 4.7: Adjustment of criteria

    It was decided to implement Nordic Ecolabelling’s new forestry requirements as an alternative to the present forestry requirements. The new version is called 4.7.

    4.5 ⇛ 4.6: Adjustment of criteria

    An adjustment has been introduced to requirement O35 regarding the use of metal complex dyes for more fiber types. The new version is called 4.6.

    4.4 ⇛ 4.5: Adjustment of criteria

    An adjustment has been introduced to requirement O35 regarding the use of metal complex dyes. The new version is called 4.5.

    4.3 ⇛ 4.4: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O3 has been adjusted regarding glufosinate. The new version, 4.4, is valid until December 31st 2018.

    4.2 ⇛ 4.3: Adjustment and prolongation of criteria

    • Requirements R71 and R72 have been altered for indigo dyed denim.
    • The validity of the criteria has been prolonged with 24 months.

    The new version, 4.3, is valid until December 31st 2018.

    4.1 ⇛ 4.2: Adjustment of criteria

    • Requirement K31 regarding dyes, colorants and pigments has been adjusted.

    The new version, 4.2, is valid until December 31st 2016.

    4.0 ⇛ 4.1: Adjustment of criteria

    • Requirement K23, regarding heavy metals on details of the fabric, has been eased.
    • M8 - regarding marketing - has been removed.

    The new version, 4.1, is valid until December 31st 2016.

  • In the background document below you will find reasoning and facts behind the specific requirements in the criteria document.

    Here you can also read the comments, requirement for requirement, from the public hearing.

    If the documents are in a Nordic language, you can get help in understanding the sections you need by contacting the product specialist in your chosen country below.

  • The previous criteria generation will expire on the 31 of December 2023.